Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel Water Pump Removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 10-06-2013

The 7.3-liter diesel V-8 engine in your Ford F-250 utilizes a heavy-responsibility Water Pump to circulate antifreeze via the radiator and coolant passages of your engine to keep it running cool. If your Water Pump is worn, it could not be capable of circulate the coolant properly, inflicting your engine to overheat. In this case, the Water Pump should be removed to put in a new pump. The water pump is mounted to the entrance of the engine block and is sealed to the block mating surface with an O-ring gasket. If antifreeze is leaking from around the water pump, its elimination can also be necessary in order that the gasket might be replaced.

Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel Water Pump Removal Instructions

1. Place a five-gallon drain pan beneath the radiator drain valve on the driver’s side of the radiator. Loosen, however don’t take away, the drain valve with a 19 mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Permit the coolant to empty fully from the radiator then tighten the drain valve.
2. Open the hood. Remove the overflow hose from the white plastic coolant tank on the high of the engine with a pair of pliers. Remove the three holding screws from the tank with a 5/16-inch nut driver. Take away the tank from the engine bay.
3. Take away the upper radiator hose by squeezing the clamps with a pair of pliers while pulling the hose from the radiator and the water pump. Place a ½-inch ratchet wrench into the square hole on the serpentine belt tensioner at the high of the engine. Rotate the wrench counterclockwise to slacken the belt tension. Slip the belt from its pulleys and take away it from the engine bay. Slowly increase the handle of the wrench and take away it.
4. Take away the 2 bolts from the highest of the plastic fan shroud with a ten mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Take away the middle nut that holds the fan to the entrance of the water pump with a 1 7/8-inch wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Raise the fan shroud and the fan collectively from the engine bay, being cautious not to injury the radiator fins.
5. Pull the electrical connectors from the coolant temperature sensor and the cam position sensor on the face of the water pump. Loosen and remove the 9 bolts that connect the water pump to the front of the engine block with a 10 mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Rigorously pry the water pump from its mating surface with a flat blade screwdriver and remove it from the engine bay.

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Comments posted (26)

I have a 1998 Pontiac grand prix. I stopped at a gas station to get gas and when i came out, a little smoke was coming from the hood. I have had different responses from different people.What i think it is is the water pump and/or themostat needs to be replaced…i need other opinions before i take it to a mechanic tomorrow..i am nervous because i am a woman and will be going there by myself and i can’t afford to get cheated.
i forgot to add that water was leaking from it too. it looked clear/greenish

I have an ’03 Honda Shadow ACE VT750 and I am changing the radiator. The radiator is drained, but how do I drain the coolant out of the engine to change it all? Also, is there anything else I need to do after I fill it back up?

I replaced the heater core on my 2001 S-10 three weeks ago, but I can still smell a bit of coolant when I start it up and sometimes the windows fog for a few seconds. Could this just be spilled coolant from the first leak, or should that have dried out by now? When should I assume I have another leak and deal with it? I dont know how long this stuff takes to dry out. Thank you.

My parents’ 1996 Cadillac DeVille was giving a low coolant warning. As I was checking it out, I noticed a tag that recommended only using silicate free antifreeze/coolant.

I’m not very familiar with this. What exactly is silicate free antifreeze? Can I get it at any autoparts store, or do I have to go to a dealer?

Thanks.

I own a 2004, 325i BMW. I have to refill the coolant almost every week. Now that the weather is cold, I notice I have no heat, especially when the coolant indicator is on. What will this cost me? Could you give me an idea also as to what part in this process could go bad and the cost to repair it at the dealership?

I’m replacing my radiator tomorrow. Do I need to do a flush with a garden hose for a little while? Or is it sufficient to gravity drain the coolant and call it good (then fill up with new coolant after the replacement is installed)?

Normally the liquid coolant perform well initially but after a period of time (coolant for CPU ~3months) the performance decrease. I would like to make them defect in a week. Can this possible? Under temperature and pressure or shaking them? How the changes inside the chemical of the liquid coolant?

water in rad heats up and the PSI spring opens allowing coolant to flow into the catch tank. This causes a drop in rad PSI so spring closed the cap seal. Now how does the coolant get back into the radiator.

My Carolla is running low on coolant. I liquid is pink in color, but other than that, I’ve no idea what brand or type it is.

Where you put the coolant water to keep the engine temperature ok. Do you have to put flush liquid in it? Or how often drain and fill?

And If I keep it the reservoir full of coolant (even though it leaks) would that be okay for my car? I know I have to take it into the shop eventually. But I’d like to have some ideas before going in there. Thanks!

Coolant light came on in my 2006 Jeep Wrangler. It was low on coolant; I filled it according to the reserve tank. Now how do I turn off the coolant light? Thank you for your assistance.

I have a 1987 chevy iroc equipped with the l98 350 engine. Where is the coolant temperature sensor located. It it an easy repair? Do I need to lift the car?

With a low coolant level how important or urgent is it that I get it refilled. The car wouldn’t break down on the road wouldn’t it? Oh the car has no other issues besides this so is this a real possibility? And lastly, are there any short or long term effects of not refilling the coolant level immediately?

I have a 1999 Chevy Lumina LS. The “Low Coolant” dashboard light came on but when I check the coolant level in the coolant reservoir, there’s plenty in it (way above the Hot line when engine is warm). The temperature gauge on the dashboard is showing that the engine temperature is increasing. It stopped at halfway after a 20-30 minute drive. It’s usually pointing at one-eighth of the guage. Is there anything I can do without getting a mechanic?

I need to add coolant to it and I would like to do it myself but looking at the tank I realized I might be too dumb to figure out how to open it. It doesn’t look like I could just twist it off, but I might have been too scared and stupid to do that.

It seems like the “Check Coolant” message is displayed too frequently, and I have to add water too often. What is the normal frequency for adding coolant to a car?
Oh-Oh: In response to the first answer, which was very good, I should also ask what happens if you just use water? I add water (just water) probably every once a week or every two weeks. Could I have damaged anything by not using coolant?

How to drain and refill coolant on a 2005 sienna Toyota mini van after you change out the radiator ?

I need to know how much coolant is needed in nuclear power stations and the specific heat capacities of salt water and fresh water. ( I don’t even know what specific heat capacities are). Everything else on the internet is full of words I don’t understand. Please help?! I’ve got an exam soon and I’m panicking a bit, I will appreciate any kind of help!

the coolant resovoir when driving awhile shows that the coolant is at the “low level”. When i open the cap, the coolant rushes in up to the full line. Is this normal?

My ’98 Audi A4 maintains coolant temperature well–the thermostat was replaced a few months ago. Oil temperature is also good. However, if I restart within a few minutes on a warm day, the coolant temperature nearly pegs high. It comes down to normal after a few minutes. Could this be a bad sensor that does not turn on the electric fan after the engine is turned off?

What kind of coolant should I get, is their a certain kind?

Also is Antifreeze/Coolant the same thing?

I was out driving my car, and all of a sudden the temp guage went up and the warning light started flashing indicating there was a problem, I pulled off the road, and opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere, like something exploded. The radiator looks fine, the big hoses look fine, but it looks like 90% of the coolant is gone. I am at a loss as to what to look for. After leaving the car sit for a while, the guage went back to normal reading and I made it home with the car, but when i pulled in the driveway the temp. went back up. There was coolant on top of the engine, around the spark plugs, on the timing belt cover, basically everywhere. The car is a 1982 Porsche 928.

Can a head gasket be blown or a head cracked even when the truck runs great, has great power, doesn’t use coolant, and passes cylinder pressure and coolant pressure tests?
Trying to figure out my newly purchased 96 Yukon. I know the previous owners of this truck and know the history on it. For the past year, it’s been having a problem starting when cold. It is NOT the typical fuel pump or regulator or ACT sensor issue, because the problem is the way in which the truck CRANKS when cold. When it’s cold, it cranks fast for maybe one revolution, then cranks really slow (too slow to start sometimes), almost like something is binding up or the starter is failing. The starter has been changed twice since this problem presented itself about one year ago. The battery has also been changed. The previous owners continued to drive the truck every day like this.
When I bought the truck, I dropped it off at a local shop for diagnosis, expecting them to find a bad ground or a bad positive cable, or maybe a bad starter.

They shocked me by telling me that the head gaskets were probably blown or a head was cracked. They told me they put a wand to the coolant and there were hydrocarbons in it. They also told me they did a propane test and there was an intake leak. When I asked how that affected the starting, the tech told me that he thought maybe it was actually hydrolocking because of coolant in a cylinder. He told me I should probably just put a new motor in the truck, since it has 100k on it anyhow.
At this point, let me tell you how great this thing runs. The oil has been changed every 3k miles for the last 65k (that’s how long the previous owners had it). It idles quietly, runs and drives great and is very strong. When I picked it up from the shop, I had my buddy drive it home, and I followed him, so that I could look for smoke. He stood on it one time, and not only was there no smoke, but my brand new 5.4L F150 could not even keep up with the old Yukon, he just walked away from me, even though I had my new truck floored.

We got it home and did the following:

1. Pulled a valve cover just to look. No milkshake and not even any sludge. Looked like new. Oil on stick looked great also.
2. Pulled plugs. No sign of any cyl. burning coolant.

3. Did a cylinder pressure test. Lowest hole = 190, highest hole = 195. I’ve put seen brand new motors which were less consistent than this.

4. Did a cooling system pressure test. Dropped 2psi in 9 minutes.

The previous owners were shocked, and swear that this truck has never overheated or used coolant. I drag race as a hobby, and run a Mustang that’s had many different superchargers on it and is now turbo charged. I’ve blown a LOT of head gaskets in my day, and I’ve never seen one like this with no symptoms.

Please let me know what you guys think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If not then how is coolant used to keep the engine from overheating? Thanks
How often do i need to replace my coolant? Also if you don’t mind can you tell me how often I should replace my brake oil and power steering fluid as well? Thanks.

I am looking to top off the coolant in my 2001 Chevy Cavalier. I have heard bad things about Dex-Cool, but I’m afraid to mix coolants and possibly cause problems that way. What type of coolant was originally installed in my Cavalier? Do I have to use the same type of coolant, or can I switch?

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