Ford AOD Transmission Installation

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-04-2013

The 4R70W is a classic example of a 4-speed, overdrive transmission manufactured by Ford Motor Company. The set up of a Ford AOD transmission is a reasonably in depth process that often takes between three and 4 hours to complete. While not necessary, earlier mechanical expertise is really helpful, especially since incorrect set up of the transmission can lead to catastrophic car failure.

Ford AOD Transmission Installation Instructions

ford aod transmission1. Increase the automobile off of the floor utilizing a hydraulic ground jack and one ton jack stands.
2. Maneuver the transmission into place in opposition to the again side of the engine block and align the bell housing bolt holes. The crankshaft output shaft should be simultaneously inserted into the torque converter enter socket. Set up and torque the bell housing to engine block bolts to 41 foot pounds.
3. Set up the fuel line bracket and snug the retaining bolt. Set up the exhaust Y-pipe. Position the ford aod transmission cross member in opposition to the underside of the transmission. Set up and tighten the cross member bolts to 32 foot pounds.
4. Install a brand new O-ring on the decrease finish of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube into the transmission case and secure the tube to the fitting hand cylinder head via the retaining bolt.
5. Attach the solenoid body connector. Join the OSS, TR, and VSS wiring harnesses. Connect the oil cooler lines to the precise facet of the transmission using a flare nut wrench. Join the transmission shift linkage. Set up the rubber access plug on the best facet of the transmission.
6. Install the starter motor. Set up the drive shaft yoke contained in the transmission extension housing. Join the drive shaft to the drive shaft yoke.
7. Decrease the automobile and add transmission fluid as needed.

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Comments posted (32)

I have a 1996 Ford econoline-150 with a blown 4R70W transmission. What cars share the same transmission that i can swap with because Im having trouble finding another e-150?

Someone told me to lock it out of o/d even at freeway speeds (60-65 mph). It has the 4-speed 4r70W tranny and 4.6L V8.
Thanks everyone I really appreciate your expertise!

the car has a 4r70w trans it really vibrates from idle to 2500 rpm i have had the trans out to replace seals and filter the car only has 123000 miles on it ive already tightened all the torque converter bolts and bell housing bolts! I need some help ive never seen anything like this!

i think i have the 4r70w im not a 100% on that

im putting in a 5.4L with a Kenne bell blower pushing 17psi. forged pistons and rods. ans MAYBE crower cams. Anyways thiss will produce like 500hp. Will a 4r70w handle this? Even if i built it up?

I have a 1997 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.
Just the other day I was driving at 30 mph, and between 30 and 40 mph the transmission was shuddering. Driving at higher speeds than 40 mph, I have no problems at all.

About 6 months ago, I had brought my car to an auto shop to have the transmission drained, flushed, and filter replaced. When I got my car home, the trans pan bolts and gasket didnt look like they were touched.
Today I drained the fluid and replaced the filter, only to find that the transmission fluid was as red as ever, and everything was fine on that end.

I read on some police interceptor message boards, that often the spark plugs could cause a shuddering. Is this true?

I’d like to hear some experience opinions on what might be causing this problem.

How serious is that and what could be causing this sound?

Engine: 302 (Ford 5.0L) OHV (Shouldn’t matter that its not the overhead cam, but whatever)
Transmission: Ford AOD (Not AOD-E… it’s the first AOD… the one used in the 80s and very early 90s).

Instructions from Haynes:
1) Raise Vehicle
2) Drain tranny fluid
3) Disconnect the oil cooler line fittings. (Plug lines to keep out contaminants)
4) Remove torque converter (TC) cover.
5) Remove nuts that fasten the TC to the driveplate.
6) Drain the fluid from the TC
7) Remove the starter motor
8) Remove the drive shaft
9) Disconnect the speedo cable
10) Remove any exhaust components which will interfere with transmission removal (I don’t have a jack so I can’t see if there are any)
11) Disconnect TV cable.
12) Disconnect shift cable.
13) Remove the mount to transmission extension hosing bolts.
14) Raise tranny and remove crossmember-to-frame bolts, lower the cross member.
15) Lower tranny. Remove transmission bolts and stud.
16) Disconnect and plug transmission fluid cooler lines.
17) Remove tranny dipstick tube.
18) Move tranny to rear, disengage from engine block dowel pins, lower and remove.

Installation:
1) Raise transmission, turn TC to line up the studs with the holes in the driveplate.
2) Move tranny forward until dowel pins and TC are engaged.
3) Install tranny to engine bolts.
4) Install TC to drive plate nuts.
5) Connect tranny fluid cooler lines.
6) Install the tranny mount and crossmember throughbolts.
7) Install dipstick tube and oil cooler line fittings
8) Install starter
9) Connect vacuum hoses (Again, don’t know if this is required since I can’t get under my car… but even if so shouldn’t take very long)
10) Connect the shift and TV linkage
11) Plug in tranny wire harness connectors
12) Install TC cover
13) install driveshaft
14) Connect speedo cable
15) Adjust shift linkage
16) Install any exhaust components removed in step 10 of removal
17) Fill tranny, start car, check for leaks.

I’m more curious because I want to know what I’m going to be charged for labor since I don’t have the facilities to do this myself. =

Thanks,
Drivetrain is easy to remove. Mark position, remove 4 bolts, pull back. Installation is also that easy.
Chokos: Ouch… that many? I’m not talking about rebuilding the tranny… pull out the old one, put new one in.
Alternate instructions: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00048.html
This would be for a shop since I don’t have the tools to do it myself.

I went to a car show this weekend and everybody either had fuel injection or a single 4-barrel carburetor. I have a generic Holley 600 cfm and am tired of ‘fitting in’, and even before this I was thinking of changing to something else, something bigger. I was thinking of either a tri-power setup (three 2-barrel carbs), dual 4-barrel carbs, or a weber 48 IDA Cobra setup. Has anyone had any experience with either of these? Gas mileage and horsepower is of no concern. I know that my automatic transmission (Ford AOD) will work with the dual 4-barrel and am fairly positive that it will work with the tri-power as well, but I don’t know if the weber 48 IDA’s would work with automatics. My engine should be able to handle the extra carburation, it’s been bored .060 over (now 311 cubic inches), RHS heads, 224 in. & 230 ex. duration @ .050 cam (hydraulic), 10.1:1 compression, and is producing in excess of 390+ horsepower or at least that is what my engine builder says. The 600 cfm holley was on the engine before it was rebuilt and seemed a little small afterwards but still performed decently so it stayed and now it’s time for it to go. If you have any experience, any advice or warnings I would like to know. Thanks

it has been shifting a little rough at around 50 to 60 mph, upshifting and downshifting as well……i changed the transmission oil, filter, gasket 5 weekes ago, changed oil 2 times this past week. oil is always clean………now transmission want shift out of first gear to 2 and 3rd gears, what could possibly be the problem for it doing this now? new transmission oil each time. it goes park, neutral, reverse, drive gears normally……………today I drained the transmission oil again, removed oil pan, gasket, fitler screen strainer, valve body………also removed the sensor, short cable connector, then removed starter, torque convertor cover……….all looks clean, no metal, debris of any kind………..i did find a little “ball”, color of reddish brown, it was up in one of the oil passages up in the transmission after removing the valve body……….where could this “ball” have come from? What else can I check while having all these things removed from the transmission? It is my 1990 Ford F-150 pickup truck. I’ve been fixing it up, restoring it. Please help with any suggestions and recommendations of any and all kinds greatly appreciated, thankyou so very much!
yo Ron, there was only 1 ball and it was already up in the passage, no fault of mine punk, if there are as many as 5 as you say then cool, I need to find out for sure exactly how many there should be and where I would find the rest of them as well as the correct locations of the check balls…………….be cool, no need to be mad ron……….its a simple thing, why are u so mad for?
where is the governor located?
how to troubleshoot it to see if it is sticking?
the reddish color ball was in the oil passage up in tranny…………today i removed the coverplate from the valve body………….there is 6 black balls inside it

My truck is leaking transmission fluid and I’m hoping for the best (change the lines) and preparing for the worst (new transmission)

1993 ford thunderbird sc. I rebuild the transmission myself. Reverse works, manual 1 works, but in drive or overdrive when it shifts into 2nd it slips.
1993 ford thunderbird sc. I rebuild the transmission myself. Reverse works, manual 1 works, but in drive or overdrive when it shifts into 2nd it slips.
I di rebuild the valve body and used new clutches.
i did air checks

I bought a 1961 Ford unibody that has a 1976 Mustang 302 engine and 3 speed automatic transmission. I would like to replace it with a 4 speed automatic. Any help would be appreciated.

I’m getting a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquie with a Ford Modular 4.6L 2 valve V8. The transmission is Ford AOD 4R70W which is rated for 506ft pounds of torque. The V8 in my car has 275 ft lbs of torque. Because this transmission was designed to offer high torque engines, will a lower torque car have a longer service life?

I no its manual but i just wanna no if it can b automatic instead of stick.

I have a 1992 Ford bronco XLT with a 302 V8 5.0l engine and was wondering how much oil I need to be put in ? Also how much i need to put in the transmission which i think is the origional and also the differentials .

I own a 1995 Mercury Cougar 4.6 w/auto 4R70W transmission.My transmission recently went out and I cannot afford to rebuild it, so I recently found a 1997 Mercury grand marquis 4.6 with the 4R70W transmission in it. Will the transmission from the marquis fit in my cougar with out any problems? Thanks!!!
Will the wiring harness on the 95 cougar work with the 97 marquis 4r70w as well?

I’m very illiterate when it comes to fixing cars/trucks, so I need some help here. Also, how much would the tranny cost new/used?

Swapping my 3 speed for an AOD:How to adjust my throttle valve cable?
I am swapping my 3 speed trans for an AOD. Does my three speed trans have a throttle valve cable? If not How do I bracket the throttle valve cable to my 66 mustang to work for my AOD? And how do I adjust it?

I have a 1994 ford thunderbird with a bad tranny, I can not locate the type or model number for that transmission anywhere. if anyone knows please let me know!
its a 4.6 liter engine

I’m planning to powerflush the torque converter, change my tran./eng. mounts, replace the differential bushings to fix those problems. Is there anything else I can upgrade/replace to improve if not eliminate that shudder/wheel hop? Would changing the diff. bushing and powerflushing the torque converter alone, make a considerable difference? Who makes the best aftermarket STOCK 4r70w torque converter? TCI, Hughes, B&M, others?

I have a mustang gt 98 v8 4.6L
My transmission blew when i put car into reverse it smokes. Should i just Buy a new transmission or rebuild i also tried looking for 1 but im having a hard time.
Also what transmission is in the mustang
Also its auto

It shows these 3 for the years ranging 95-01
4-speed 4R55E automatic
4-speed 4R70W automatic
5-speed 5R55E automatic

I dont see any of these numbers on the tranny when I go under the vehicle. Thanks for any assistance.

i have 1994 f150 302v8 xlt with a 4r70w tranny . i want to put a 351w in my truck the 351 came out of e250 94,95 model. they are all fuel injection. what do i have to change and what can stay. jokes to the side. my truck is ex cab.

do the 4.6 and the 302 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern?

I’m planning to powerflush the torque converter, change my tran./eng. mounts, replace the differential bushings to fix those problems. Is there anything else I can upgrade/replace to improve if not eliminate that shudder/wheel hop? Would changing the diff. bushing and powerflushing the torque converter alone, make a considerable difference? Who makes the best aftermarket STOCK 4r70w torque converter? TCI, Hughes, B&M, others?

Have an eye on a 1998 Mark8 transmission for my 1996 Mustang GT and I know it needs some to make work, but how much? I know it will bolt up! How different are they???
Probably gonna rebuild my 4r70w….

Thanx in advance

I have a 1997 V6 automatic mustang. My shifter cable clip broke and i have a few other alternative cable selections that i could choose from, but dont know if they r compatible. I just need to know what tranny i have. Thanks!

i have a 1993 mercury grand marquis it is a 4.6l v8 the transmission shudders when it shifts into overdrive. what are the common problems associated with this.

Local dealers wont give model of tranny without seeing the vehicle and charging a fee..of course. Is there a site where I can type my VIN number and it will show a list of part numbers for my vehicle?

transmission is a 4r70w. i just need a basic swap.

Also is it all years or just certain ones?

Im looking at older V6 MT 4x4s and dont want tranny issues immediatly. Also I may end up having to go with an AT, so Id like to make sure its ok when mated to the V6.

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