Ford 4.0 Liter Thermostat Installation Instructions


Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 02-05-2013

The thermostat in your Ford 4.0 liter engine is important to the operation of your engine’s cooling system. In case you have noticed that your engine is running sizzling or, that the temperature gauge doesn’t appear to be reading accurately then it’s essential to change the thermostat. You may set up a thermostat in a Ford 4.0 liter engine (the engine utilized in virtually every V6 Ford truck and automotive) in about an hour.

Ford 4.0 Liter Thermostat Installation Instructions

1. Park your automobile or truck on a stage surface. Look ahead to the engine to utterly cool. Open the hood and remove the radiator filler cap (this unscrews by hand).
2. Place a bucket beneath the car beneath the driver’s facet of the radiator. Reach under the radiator and switch the drain petcock in the direction of the front of the car. If in case you have difficulty turning the petcock by hand, clamp a pair of vise grips to it and turn it utilizing these as a handle. Enable enough coolant to drain out of the radiator so that you could see the highest of the steel fins inside the radiator when you look in by means of the open fill cap. Shut the petcock.
3. Trace the coolant delivery hose from the place it comes off radiator to the place it joins the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing shall be located on the highest of the engine block, toward the front. It is metal and the delivery hose will feed into it and there will probably be two additional hose coming off the housing.
4. Loosen the hose clamps attaching the hoses to the thermostat housing by turning the hose clamp screws counter-clockwise with a flat head screwdriver. When the clamps are unfastened enough to spin across the hose, pull the hoses off the housing.
5. Remove the 4 bolts holding the housing cover in place with a socket wrench. Raise the housing cover off. Inspect the gasket beneath the housing, exchange it if it is brittle to the touch or seems to be worn. Scrape off the old gasket with a paint scraper put a brand new one in its place.
6. Take away the old thermostat from its place in the housing by merely lifting it out.
7. Set up the thermostat into your Ford 4.0 liter by inserting it in the same place because the old. Make sure that the silver high is dealing with upward and the arrows on the highest are pointed toward the radiator.
8. Substitute the thermostat housing cover and bolt it into position. Re-attach the hoses and tighten the hose clamps. Fill the radiator with new coolant and exchange the filler cap.

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Comments posted (27)

I am sure it means I have to change the coolant/flush the coolant, but is this an indication that there is something wrong with the engine or is this a problem that is 99% of the time fixed merely by flushing out the bad coolant and putting in new/good coolant?
The car is a 1996 Saturn SL1 and this is the first time the sludge has ever shown up in the coolant tank…

Hi everyone,

I have a 1994 Acura Integra. Beside the recommended Honda coolant, what other type of market brand coolants can I use?

I look at the coolant reservoir, it looks like a green coolant. And the coolant in the reservoir is way down. DO I need to refill?

Thanks for helping

I am about to take my car out of town and my coolant level is low. I was just going to top it off but wasn’t sure about mixing new coolant with old coolant. I know what type I should use, but wasn’t sure about mixing. Any help is appreciated and if you have a link to an outside reference, even better. Happy Holidays.

My ’98 Audi A4 maintains coolant temperature well–the thermostat was replaced a few months ago. Oil temperature is also good. However, if I restart within a few minutes on a warm day, the coolant temperature nearly pegs high. It comes down to normal after a few minutes. Could this be a bad sensor that does not turn on the electric fan after the engine is turned off?

My brothers car has a leak in the hose from coolant and he has a 2000 pontiac SE. He needs to change it. He has all the tools but no instuctions. Please help.

I have a Goodman furnace and White Rodgers thermostat with heat/off/cool settings. Supposedly when lowered to a certain temp. the heat blowing/cycling is supposed to stop, but no matter what temp. it just keeps going on and off. It does not stop operating below room temp. Is it dangerous to just turn the thermostat off when I don’t want heat?

I’ve had the coolant level warning come up several times for the past few months, but never had the chance to get it serviced. Would it be bad that my coolant level is running low but my temperature is the same?

I bought engine coolant but it doesn’t say if it has to be diluted and I thought it had to be, but the other stuff on the shelf in the shop which doesn’t have to be diluted is anti-freeze but says it goes in the same place as engine coolant – can I mix the two, or are they the same thing?

It seems like the “Check Coolant” message is displayed too frequently, and I have to add water too often. What is the normal frequency for adding coolant to a car?
Oh-Oh: In response to the first answer, which was very good, I should also ask what happens if you just use water? I add water (just water) probably every once a week or every two weeks. Could I have damaged anything by not using coolant?

I would alos like to know the difference between the “coolant temperature sensor” and the “Temperature gauge sending unit”. I can’t find either on my car..i looked at the repair manual for honda accords (1990′s) but i still can’t locate it in my car. Can anyone be more specific on where i should be looking. The book says it should be either on the cylinder head or the coolant cross over passage. If anyone can supply me with actual photos or just be very descriptive on where they are located. I would greatly appreciate it.

Can a head gasket be blown or a head cracked even when the truck runs great, has great power, doesn’t use coolant, and passes cylinder pressure and coolant pressure tests?
Trying to figure out my newly purchased 96 Yukon. I know the previous owners of this truck and know the history on it. For the past year, it’s been having a problem starting when cold. It is NOT the typical fuel pump or regulator or ACT sensor issue, because the problem is the way in which the truck CRANKS when cold. When it’s cold, it cranks fast for maybe one revolution, then cranks really slow (too slow to start sometimes), almost like something is binding up or the starter is failing. The starter has been changed twice since this problem presented itself about one year ago. The battery has also been changed. The previous owners continued to drive the truck every day like this.
When I bought the truck, I dropped it off at a local shop for diagnosis, expecting them to find a bad ground or a bad positive cable, or maybe a bad starter.

They shocked me by telling me that the head gaskets were probably blown or a head was cracked. They told me they put a wand to the coolant and there were hydrocarbons in it. They also told me they did a propane test and there was an intake leak. When I asked how that affected the starting, the tech told me that he thought maybe it was actually hydrolocking because of coolant in a cylinder. He told me I should probably just put a new motor in the truck, since it has 100k on it anyhow.
At this point, let me tell you how great this thing runs. The oil has been changed every 3k miles for the last 65k (that’s how long the previous owners had it). It idles quietly, runs and drives great and is very strong. When I picked it up from the shop, I had my buddy drive it home, and I followed him, so that I could look for smoke. He stood on it one time, and not only was there no smoke, but my brand new 5.4L F150 could not even keep up with the old Yukon, he just walked away from me, even though I had my new truck floored.

We got it home and did the following:

1. Pulled a valve cover just to look. No milkshake and not even any sludge. Looked like new. Oil on stick looked great also.
2. Pulled plugs. No sign of any cyl. burning coolant.

3. Did a cylinder pressure test. Lowest hole = 190, highest hole = 195. I’ve put seen brand new motors which were less consistent than this.

4. Did a cooling system pressure test. Dropped 2psi in 9 minutes.

The previous owners were shocked, and swear that this truck has never overheated or used coolant. I drag race as a hobby, and run a Mustang that’s had many different superchargers on it and is now turbo charged. I’ve blown a LOT of head gaskets in my day, and I’ve never seen one like this with no symptoms.

Please let me know what you guys think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My coolant tmep needles bounces up and down. When the needle jumps up my car revs up high. And when bounces low it revs low. After a few minutes, it will balance out and seems to even out.

I have a 1999 Chevy Lumina LS. The “Low Coolant” dashboard light came on but when I check the coolant level in the coolant reservoir, there’s plenty in it (way above the Hot line when engine is warm). The temperature gauge on the dashboard is showing that the engine temperature is increasing. It stopped at halfway after a 20-30 minute drive. It’s usually pointing at one-eighth of the guage. Is there anything I can do without getting a mechanic?

How to drain and refill coolant on a 2005 sienna Toyota mini van after you change out the radiator ?

My Carolla is running low on coolant. I liquid is pink in color, but other than that, I’ve no idea what brand or type it is.

What kind of coolant should I get, is their a certain kind?

Also is Antifreeze/Coolant the same thing?

i need to empty the coolant in my ’93 ford probe, but i live in an apartment, so a garden hose is out of the question. is there another way?

My coolant light came on in my car and I just want to know if I can still drive it a few miles before replacing the coolant, or if I should not drive it anywhere.

I actually use water for my radiator. Adding only a 120ml of Whiz coolant on it. After reading from on-line helps, I’ve learned that water should not be used. Does this means I should fill my radiator with coolants only or is there a ratio for water:coolant proportioning. Thanks for the help.

My assembled jeep uses a Toyota 4K engine.

I have a 1994 Nissan Altima GXE. I noticed the water coolant container next to the radiator started boiling and evaporating the water inside, but my car is not overheating or being affected by this problem. How do I fix this, and what could it be? Please help!

My sisters 2000 monte carlo has oil seeping through the coolant hoses. How do I find out if it is transfluid from the cooler in the radiator or oil from the engine. The resevior coolant is clean and under the radiator cap is thick sludge.

When my car is cold the coolant overflow is empty, there is a little bit at the bottom. It used to be about halfway full. Is that a problem? Should I add coolant?

My Low Coolant light keeps flashing and I need to figure out how to stop it. My radiator is full and so is the resevoir tank. The manual says something about a bleed off valve. Please help by giving me step by step directions. Can you completely drain the radiator, like at the bottom of the radiator?

Can you just add the coolant into the cooling system or do you HAVE TO drain it out first? Is draining a necessity?

With a low coolant level how important or urgent is it that I get it refilled. The car wouldn’t break down on the road wouldn’t it? Oh the car has no other issues besides this so is this a real possibility? And lastly, are there any short or long term effects of not refilling the coolant level immediately?

I already changed coolant few weeks ago, should I also do the radiator flushing? I think they are pretty much the same.

Where you put the coolant water to keep the engine temperature ok. Do you have to put flush liquid in it? Or how often drain and fill?

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